Photographs from the field. Select a destination to explore.
2.7 kilometres of falling water.
17 photographs · 4 sequences
Iguazú sits on the border between Argentina and Brazil. The river drops over a basalt escarpment in 275 individual falls across a 2.7 kilometre arc. The Argentine side gives you the experience: walkways through the mist, single falls close enough to touch. The Brazilian side gives you the panorama. On the right morning, with the right light, a rainbow holds across the full width of the mist column.
The full system runs 2.7 kilometres across. You cannot see it all from any single point. These four frames try to hold the scale from different distances: through the foliage, from the high lookout, and from the Brazilian side where the panorama opens up completely.
Full panorama from the Brazilian side. A rainbow across the mist column.
Morning light through the canopy. The falls visible through the green.
The full system from the high lookout: falls, islands, jungle, river. You still can't see all of it.
Cascades spilling over the basalt shelves, mist rising above the forest.
The river upstream is calm and ochre-brown. Then it breaks over the rocks, picks up speed, and goes over the edge. Below the falls it's mist and chaos. The boats that take you under get you completely soaked, which is entirely the point. These six frames follow the water from the quiet stretch to the boats far below.
The river, wide and calm and stained brown, running between green banks.
Brown river water breaking over rocks in the forest, sunlight raking across the rapids.
Rapids racing across the river toward the falls, mist hanging over the forest beyond.
Brown water rushing toward the edge of the falls, mist rising over the tree line.
A boat in the lower circuit. The mist wall of the falls behind it. They go all the way under.
An orange raft crossing the muddy river below the falls, seen through the branches.
The Argentine circuits (upper, lower, and the walkway to Garganta del Diablo) put you within metres of individual falls. At this distance the scale disappears and only the detail remains: the colour of the basalt, the shape of the water, the brightness of the vegetation. These four frames come from the walkways and the forest around them.
A steel walkway runs through the forest toward the falls, sun coming through the canopy.
The walkway winding through the forest, sun filtering through the leaves.
A single waterfall dropping through the forest, dense green plants crowding the pool.
A waterfall glimpsed through the branches, blue sky above the canopy.
You spend more time in the jungle than at the falls. It's warm and wet from the mist, and the birds are loud in a way that doesn't stop. These three frames are from the paths between viewpoints, the parts most people walk through without stopping.
Moss-covered rock catching a shaft of sun in the dark understory.
Broad green leaves in the dim light under the canopy.
A capuchin monkey half hidden in the foliage, watching from the middle of the frame.
250 km² of advancing ice.
38 photographs · 11 sequences
The Perito Moreno glacier is one of the largest and most accessible glaciers on earth, and one of the few still advancing. It rises 60 metres above Lago Argentino's surface and stretches nearly 5 kilometres across. In April, the surrounding lenga beech forest turns deep red and orange, creating a colour contrast that photographs can barely contain. These 11 sequences document a full day at the glacier: from the shore, on the ice, above it, and finally from the water.
The first encounter. You're walking through lenga trees and then it's just there: a wall of blue-white ice rising from the water, taller than anything you expected. These five frames were made on the rocky shore at the base of the northern face, before stepping onto the walkways.
Freshly calved icebergs on the still surface of Lago Argentino.
The ice wall rising above the rocky shore. Blue veins run through the face where the ice is densest.
The Argentine flag against the glacier face. Los Glaciares National Park.
Rocky shore below the glacier. A warning sign at the water's edge.
Looking across the calving channel from the south shore. Ice drifting in.
The northern face rises 60 to 70 metres from the water, roughly a 20-storey building standing in a lake. These three photographs are about the wall itself: the scale of it, the blue, and what it actually means that the ice you're looking at is two and a half million years old.
The glacier front against a snow-dusted Andean backdrop.
The glacier front, its crest cut into jagged blue seracs. Dark mountains behind.
Fractured blue ice at the glacier's face. Stormy sky above.
On the Big Ice trek you walk on the glacier surface with crampons. The meltwater carves channels and crevasses from within and the ice exposed inside is thousands of years old. That blue comes from the density: so compressed it absorbs everything except blue light. Four frames of pure abstraction.
Deep blue ice along a crevasse wall, smooth where it has been compressed over centuries.
Vertical crevasse between two ice walls. Light filters through from above.
Looking down into a funnel in the ice, its walls dusted with dark sediment.
Narrow meltwater channel. Electric blue ice walls on either side.
The Big Ice excursion takes you onto the glacier with crampons. The scale only becomes real when you can compare it to a human figure. These three frames document that relationship.
A line of trekkers, tiny on the crest of the glacier, with the ice running out to a flat grey sky.
Ice hummocks and the figures below them. Scale made visible.
Trekkers on the glacier ridge. Grey sky, scale made visible.
Walking between the seracs on the Big Ice feels like moving through a city that's never been inhabited. Some towers rise six or seven metres above the surface, carved by sun and melt into shapes that look almost deliberate.
Pale seracs under flat overcast. The shapes look architectural.
Jagged serac with a deep crevasse. Blue sky above.
A pyramid of ice with narrow blue crevasses cut into its flank.
Single large serac rising from the glacier surface.
From the lake walkways below the glacier, the seracs appear as a jagged skyline: a frozen mountain range sitting on water. These three frames capture that perspective: looking up at the ice from below.
The glacier front across the lake, its blue crest set against a dark forested slope and snow-covered peaks.
An ice spire rising against the dark autumn forest of the far shore.
Complete frontal face of the glacier at water level.
When a section breaks off it hits the water with a sound like a cannon shot. You feel it through the walkway. The ice then drifts across the lake for days, sometimes weeks. Six frames at every scale, from the autumn lenga looking down to the calving face at water level.
Orange lenga branches framing icebergs drifting below.
Icebergs clustered at the base of the glacier wall.
Calved ice chunks from above, dense and packed.
Single iceberg adrift in deep blue lake water.
Autumn lenga in the foreground. Glacier face behind.
Calving face. Fresh icebergs in turquoise water.
April in Patagonia. The lenga beeches turn red and orange before winter, creating an extraordinary colour contrast with the blue-white of the glacier. The light is lower, softer, and the foreground transforms completely.
Autumnal lenga forest below the glacier's vast expanse.
Pine canopy framing the glacier face and turquoise water.
Glacier upper mass visible through autumn branches.
Looking along the glacier's lateral wall through autumn forest.
Autumn branches frame a rocky shoreline, with the glacier far off in the mist.
From the elevated walkways on the south shore, you can look directly down onto the glacier surface. The texture is relentless: every square metre is different, every crevasse unique.
Crevasses and blue seracs across the glacier surface.
Fractured surface of the glacier stretching to the horizon.
The glacier running back toward the fog, its far end lost in cloud.
The glacier edge against the dark mountain. The boundary between ice and rock.
Two frames that place the glacier in its full context: the Andes behind, the lake below, the lenga on the hillsides. The thing about Perito Moreno is that every layer of the landscape is working at once.
The glacier front across Lago Argentino, with snow-capped peaks and a dark forested slope behind.
Orange rock in the foreground, the glacier front and snowy peaks beyond.
The boat puts you directly in front of the face, the only position where the 5-kilometre width starts to make sense. Even then, no single frame can hold it. These three frames try from different angles of the same crossing.
Fog erasing the mountains. The glacier seems to float.
Complete lateral face of the glacier from the lake.
Textured ice face with blue seracs visible from the water.
Fitz Roy and the end of the world.
12 photographs · 4 sequences
El Chaltén sits at the northern end of Los Glaciares National Park, at the base of the Fitz Roy massif. The Tehuelche people called the mountain Chaltén, meaning smoking mountain, for the permanent cloud that crowns its granite spire. The village is small, founded only in 1985, and it wears that youth well. In April, the trekking season winds down, the lenga forest turns red and orange, and the place becomes something else entirely.
El Chaltén is where the road ends. Beyond it there's nothing but the mountains and the trails into them. The town is small: a few blocks, a gas station, restaurants that close early. Most of the people who live there came for a season and didn't quite leave. These two frames were made from the hillsides above town.
From above town. The village, the road, the valley, the mountains. Everything in the same frame.
Bare lenga trees frame the rooftops. The valley opens behind.
Most people come for Fitz Roy and walk straight past the valley. The Río de las Vueltas runs turquoise through wide gravel beds. Above it, ancient rock walls rise from the steppe. If you slow down and stop at the right moment, the wildlife finds you.
A Southern Crested Caracara perched on granite. The steppe stretches behind.
Ancient rock walls above the valley floor. Patagonian geology stripped bare.
The Río de las Vueltas bending through its gravel floodplain. Autumn lenga on the slopes.
The trail to Laguna de los Tres climbs 1,000 metres over about 10 kilometres: lenga forest first, then open alpine terrain, then the glacial lake at the foot of the mountain. In April the forest is in full autumn colour and Fitz Roy appears and disappears through the trees the whole way up.
Monte Fitz Roy above the autumn lenga. The approach from the valley floor.
Fitz Roy and the valley from above. The lenga forest in full autumn colour.
The moraine above the treeline. Red rock and snow-dusted peaks.
Monte Fitz Roy at close range. The rock is granite and the faces are mostly vertical, which is part of why it took until 1952 for anyone to reach the top, and years after that for a second ascent. From the moraine above the treeline these four frames look at nothing else.
The sheer granite face of Fitz Roy. Nothing but rock and sky.
The summit pyramid and its satellites. Snow lodged in every crevice.
The Fitz Roy massif from end to end. Granite and snow against Patagonian sky.
Monte Fitz Roy rising above the moraine. The summit at close range.
One mile deep, 277 miles long, and more than you can see in a lifetime.
12 photographs · 4 sequences
The Grand Canyon is not a landscape you photograph accurately. The scale defeats every lens. These twelve images were made at Grand Canyon West, on the Hualapai Reservation: the ravens before you reach the void, the stratified walls in afternoon light, the panoramas that repeat themselves without repetition, and the Colorado River visible from above like a thread more than a kilometre below your feet.
The canyon announces itself before you see it: the shuttle bus, the dust, the ravens. These two frames were made before reaching the rim, at the entry zone where the scale has not yet registered. The raven in the second frame already knows the void behind it.
The shuttle stop at the rim, a raven overhead. The canyon is a few steps away and still out of sight.
A raven on the rim, the layered canyon stretching away behind it.
Grand Canyon West sits on the Hualapai Reservation, in the western part of the canyon, and here the rim is not one long trail but a chain of viewpoints you move between by shuttle. These three frames document the approach: the stratified walls beginning to appear, the flat dry plateau before the drop, and the red sandstone ledges at the edge of a viewpoint.
Stratified walls dropping from the rim, the layers stepping down into shadow.
The approach road. Flat and completely unremarkable until it isn't.
Red sandstone ledges stepping toward the rim, a yucca in the corner of the frame.
The Grand Canyon is 277 miles long, a mile deep, and impossible to hold in a single frame. These four photographs were made from the viewpoints at Grand Canyon West as the afternoon light moved west across the buttes. Each frame is the same canyon from a different angle of the same hour.
Warm light on the middle buttes, cooler tones fading toward the far wall.
Late afternoon light across the canyon. Horizontal strata that record nearly two billion years.
Late afternoon. Five to six million years of erosion sitting still in front of you.
Late light. The lower sections go dark first, and the rim holds the sun longest.
From the rim the Colorado looks like a brown ribbon. It takes a moment to register that it's more than a kilometre below you and moving fast. These three frames move downward through the geometry of the canyon: the gap between boulders at the edge, the dark inner walls, the river at the bottom.
Looking up through the gap between two boulders at the canyon's edge. The sky reduced to a sliver.
A sunlit promontory against the dark inner wall. The depth doesn't photograph the way it looks in person.
The Colorado River bending through the canyon, far below the rim.
Granite towers and autumn forest above Lago Nahuel Huapi.
15 photographs · 5 sequences
Bariloche sits on the eastern shore of Lago Nahuel Huapi, at the edge of a trail system that reaches deep into the Andes. The granite cirque above Refugio Frey is the centrepiece: a ring of rock towers rising from a glacial lake at 1700 metres. In autumn, the lenga beech forest below turns deep orange and the contrast with the grey granite is something that requires being there. These five sequences were made over two days in the cirque, on the approach, and in the village below.
Bariloche from above, in autumn. The rooftops through the autumn forest, the lake behind, the Andes behind that. The city is denser than it looks from the trailheads. You only notice it from the hillsides.
Rooftops among autumn colour on the slope above Bariloche.
Overcast. The peak above the treeline. The winter was coming in fast.
The lenga turns red and orange in April and May while the coihue pines stay green. On the same hillside you get every shade at once. These three frames hold that moment before the cold takes the colour out.
Lenga and coihue in full autumn colour. Every shade of orange compressed into one hillside.
Stunted trees on the exposed slope. The zone where the forest gives up.
First snow on the summit. Conifer forest holding green below the snowline.
The trail to Refugio Frey climbs through coihue forest and open rock terrain above the Villa Catedral ski resort. As the trees thin, the granite takes over. These three frames document the transition from forest to exposed ridgeline, where the first views of the high cirque begin to open.
Granite ridgeline above the treeline. Autumn scrub in the couloirs below, snow on the upper rock.
Dark rock towers dusted with snow, cloud lifting off the summit, autumn scrub below.
Pale granite slabs meeting a slope of orange autumn scrub.
The granite towers above Refugio Frey are among the best rock in Patagonia. Climbers come from around the world for the routes on these spires. In autumn the rock takes warm golden light in the mornings and holds it long into the afternoon. Four frames focused entirely on the granite.
Overcast granite pinnacle. Red-purple autumn scrub dusted with snow at the base.
Granite towers against a soft pink sky, fresh snow on the ridge below.
A cluster of granite spires against a clear blue sky, snow lodged between the rocks.
Snow-dusted granite blocks at close range under a clear blue sky.
Laguna Frey sits in a granite cirque at 1,700 metres, at the foot of the pinnacles. In autumn the water reflects the towers above. In early winter the first snow reaches the boulders on the shore. Three frames from the same cirque.
Pale granite boulders in the foreground, the dark towers rising beyond under a clear sky.
First snow on the boulders, reflected in the still water. Laguna Frey.
Autumn lenga doubled in the water. Orange above, orange below.
Granite walls, snowmelt waterfalls, and the largest exposed monolith on Earth.
14 photographs · 5 sequences
Yosemite Valley is 11 kilometres long and enclosed by granite walls rising 900 metres from the valley floor. The challenge is not finding the landscape but moving past the obvious frames into something less seen. These 14 photographs were made in autumn and winter: the Wawona Tunnel at both ends, the forest in monochrome, El Capitan from Cook's Meadow at first frost, the falls at different hours and scales, and Half Dome from above the valley.
Yosemite Valley does not reveal itself gradually. The Wawona Tunnel cuts through solid granite for a kilometre, and then the valley opens all at once. These two frames hold the moment of transition: from inside the tunnel, the orange glow of the lamps against absolute darkness, and from outside, the stone arch framing the road as it bends into the canyon.
Inside the Wawona Tunnel. Orange lamps illuminate the vault above the empty road.
The Wawona Tunnel east portal. The stone arch frames the road as it curves into the valley.
The valley floor gets the crowds. The forest on the way up gets the silence. Three frames from that zone: a cut log in black and white, the canyon walls receding into mist, and the valley seen through autumn oak in full yellow.
A cut log on the forest floor beneath tall pines, in black and white.
The granite walls of Yosemite in morning mist. Monochrome layers receding into the valley.
The valley floor seen through autumn oak leaves. Yellow bokeh, golden cottonwood below.
El Capitan is 900 metres of sheer granite. Cook's Meadow is the one place in the valley where you can see the whole face at once. These three frames were made from that meadow in different seasons: frost in January, bare branches in winter, autumn cottonwood in October. Same spot, same wall, different light.
El Capitan from Cook's Meadow. Frost on the valley grass, blue sky above the summit.
El Capitan framed by bare winter branches. The monolith behind the tangle of the meadow.
Golden cottonwoods and pines on the valley floor, a granite wall rising behind them.
In winter the falls slow to almost nothing. In spring they come back with the snowmelt and you can hear them from across the valley. Four frames at different scales: a thin fall on a dark granite wall, a ribbon of water on pale rock, the upper falls close up on warm granite, and a smaller fall in a shadowed gorge with pines lit at the base.
A thin waterfall on a dark granite wall, framed by pines at the edge of the meadow.
A waterfall ribbon down pale granite, the cliffs stepping down to the forest below.
Upper Yosemite Falls on warm granite. The fall cuts between two walls of orange stone.
A thin waterfall drops through a shadowed granite gorge, sunlit pines at the bottom.
From Glacier Point you're at 2,199 metres looking at Half Dome at 2,693, with the valley almost 1,000 metres below you. The northwest face is sheer but from this angle it reads as a dome. The afternoon light on it is very good. Two frames as the light drops: the dome itself, and a canyon wall already in shadow.
Half Dome in afternoon sun, the valley dropping away below it.
A canyon wall in deep shadow, the last sun on the trees below and clear sky above.
A gold rush town frozen in time at 2,551 metres. No electricity, no restoration, no people.
20 photographs · 5 sequences
Bodie boomed to 10,000 residents in 1879 and collapsed just as fast. When the last families left in the 1940s, they locked the doors behind them and walked away. California State Parks have maintained the town in a state of arrested decay ever since: no restoration, no reconstruction. What stands today is what was left. These 20 photographs were made during a late afternoon visit when the light dropped behind the Bodie Hills and turned the weathered wood the colour of embers.
Bodie sits at about 2,550 metres in the Bodie Hills, 13 miles east of US-395, the last three on a dirt road. The drive sets the scene: isolation, sagebrush, and the gradual appearance of structures on the far side of a dry basin. These five frames document the approach and first sight of the town.
Sagebrush and rock on a dry hillside under a clear blue sky. The high desert around Bodie.
A gravel path crosses the sagebrush toward a lone building on the ridge, dust drifting over the far hills.
The town from a distance, a scatter of small roofs on the valley floor under a wide sky.
Sagebrush in the foreground and, beyond it, the first roofs of the town, one with a small steeple.
A small brick ruin among the sagebrush on a bare hillside.
The Bodie Methodist Church is one of the most intact buildings in the park, and its steeple is a landmark from across the townsite. The timber has weathered to silver-brown, and the pointed doorway and windows still hold their shape. These two frames show the church up close and in its setting, among the sagebrush and the neighbouring houses.
The Methodist Church with its steeple and pointed doorway. The timber has weathered to silver-brown.
Sagebrush in the foreground. The church behind. Bodie Hills above.
At its peak in 1879, Bodie had 10,000 residents and 65 saloons. Today roughly 5 percent of those structures remain, preserved in a state of arrested decay by California State Parks. Walking the main street, the silence is total except for the wind. These six frames look at the street and the storefronts along it as they stand now.
Main Street in black and white. Timber buildings on both sides and utility poles leading toward the hills.
The weathered corner of a wooden building, and behind it another with pointed windows.
A two-story timber storefront, its large windows and doors still in place.
A timber storefront with a covered porch, other buildings of the town beyond it.
A leaning wooden storefront, its front wall tilting after more than a century of wind and snow.
A brick building with arched windows and a decorated cornice, unusual among Bodie's wooden storefronts.
The primary material at Bodie is wood: pine and fir milled from the surrounding hills in the 1870s. A century and a half of sun, snow, and wind has turned it grey and silver, warped the boards, pulled the nails. Beside it sits the iron, left where it was last used: wagon fittings, bed springs, old drums. These five frames are about the materials themselves.
Weathered timber buildings across the sagebrush, with rusted drums and debris in the foreground.
A shingle-roofed house among the sagebrush, its boards weathered to silver-brown.
A weathered cupola rising from a shingled roof against a deep blue sky.
An old wagon in the shade of a timber shed, its wooden wheel and iron fittings intact.
A rusted bed frame with its coil springs still in place, striped by the shadow of a window.
The interiors of Bodie's buildings have been left as they were when the last residents walked out. Looking through windows and doorways into these spaces is one of the most affecting experiences in the park. These two frames look in: a shop window with a dress form and old packaging behind the glass, and an open doorway at the top of worn steps.
Through a shop window: a dress form and old packaging, with the street reflected in the glass.
An open doorway at the top of worn wooden steps, with a glimpse of the room inside.
The lowest, hottest, driest place in North America. 282 feet below sea level.
10 photographs · 3 sequences
Death Valley receives less than 50 millimetres of rain per year. Summer temperatures exceed 54°C. The landscape records this extremity in stripped rock, salt flats, and sand. But the park is also 13,600 square kilometres of geological variety: coloured canyon walls, volcanic cinder cones, 30-metre dunes, and snow-capped peaks visible from below sea level. These 10 photographs were made across several stops along the valley.
The lowest point in North America at 86 metres below sea level. The approach from every direction is a long descent through the mountains. On the valley floor the roads are straight and the distances deceive you: things that look close are an hour away. Four frames from the floor.
A straight road, thin cloud and almost no traffic. The kind of drive that makes you feel very small.
Haze softens the far mountains until they nearly vanish into the pale sky.
The road runs straight toward a wall of snow-dusted mountains under an overcast sky.
Red and ochre hills rising from the valley floor, power lines crossing the flat.
The Mesquite Flat dunes rise 30 metres from the valley floor near Stovepipe Wells. Wind builds the sand into sharp ridgelines. At dawn and dusk the low light carves them into deep relief. These four frames were made early morning when the dune field was still empty.
Driftwood on the dune face. No idea how it got there.
Wind-drawn ripples. The sand is always doing this as long as the wind blows.
Someone on the ridge. That's how big the dunes are.
Dunes with desert shrubs in the foreground. Mountains behind.
The Harmony Borax Works started processing ore in 1883. The borax was hauled out by the famous 20-mule teams across 270 kilometres of desert. The adobe ruins are still standing near Furnace Creek. Two frames of what's left.
Adobe wall detail. Mud brick intact after 140 years of desert weather.
The ruins and the wooden fence. The Funeral Mountains behind them.
Wild orangutans, leaf monkeys, and the forest floor birds that most trekkers never see.
29 photographs · 8 sequences
Bukit Lawang is a small river town on the eastern edge of Gunung Leuser National Park in North Sumatra. The park is part of the Leuser Ecosystem, one of the last places on earth where Sumatran orangutans, tigers, elephants, and rhinoceroses coexist. The orangutans are the reason people come to Bukit Lawang. They move through the canopy above the Bohorok River in small groups, unhurried and largely indifferent to the guides and trekkers below. The forest also holds Thomas’s leaf monkeys, pig-tailed macaques, and, low on the forest floor and rarely seen, the Great Argus, a pheasant with some of the longest tail feathers of any bird alive.
You hear the branch before you see what’s on it. Then the face appears: wide, still, not particularly interested in you. Adult males develop those cheek pads over the years and end up looking like something from a different era. Which they are, in a way. Sumatra is the only place left where they exist in the wild, and even here the forest keeps getting smaller.
Adult male. The cheek pads, the flanges, take years to develop. He wasn't looking at us.
Looking up through the leaves. He'd been in that tree for the last hour.
Close on the face. The stare goes straight through you.
Half behind the trunk, watching. Not moving, not leaving.
Shot from the floor looking up. The arms stretch wider than you'd expect for the weight.
The hand. Dense fur, thick fingers. You can almost feel the grip through the photo.
She kept the young one pressed against her the whole time. Never more than one arm’s length away. The baby kept looking at us. The mother barely did.
The mother looking straight at you. The baby peeking from behind her shoulder.
An orangutan settled in the fork of a branch, arms wrapped around a limb, watching us.
Higher up, harder to see. She knew we were there the whole time.
The babies are completely white. Just born, while the adults are all dark grey. It’s one of those things the forest shows you that you don’t expect and then can’t stop looking at.
A young leaf monkey with a pale, spiky crest, looking up beside an adult.
A Thomas's leaf monkey on a branch, black crest and white chest bright against the green.
Another Thomas's leaf monkey between two branches, its long tail hanging below.
When they decide to move, they really move. One second the canopy is quiet, next second there are twenty of them crossing overhead and half of them are in the air at the same time.
Two grey leaf monkeys together on a branch, one reaching up.
A small monkey on the trunk high in the canopy, half hidden by leaves.
Grey adults, bright orange babies. The contrast is so strong it looks like two different animals. Quieter than the Thomas’s monkeys, harder to spot. They show up when they want to and disappear the same way.
A surili with orange-tinged limbs hanging from a branch, seen from below.
A surili at rest high in the canopy, its long tail hanging below the branch.
Looking right. Completely still for one second, then gone.
A young one, maybe two metres off the ground. Green everywhere.
A surili high in the canopy, small against the leaves.
Looking the other way. They spend a lot of time doing this.
Stockier than the other monkeys. Moves between the ground and the lower branches, doesn’t seem bothered by much. The short tail gives it away, that and the general attitude of something that has been here a long time and knows it.
A macaque in profile, olive-brown coat and heavy brow, watching something out of frame.
Walking away. Completely indifferent to the camera.
A long-tailed macaque seated on a branch, tail hanging, bright foliage behind.
Most people walk right past them. It stays low, moves slowly, and the mottled grey-brown plumage blends into the leaf litter far better than you would expect from a bird this size. In display the tail and wing feathers carry rows of eye-shaped spots and are among the longest of any bird alive, but folded down on the forest floor it looks almost plain, more shadow than bird. Finding one standing in open light on a fallen log felt like stumbling onto something the forest didn’t mean to show.
A pheasant on a fallen log, long grey tail trailing behind, red legs against the bark.
Speckled plumage and red-orange feet gripping a log, seen close.
Close on the plumage: fine black-and-cream speckling with golden spots along the back.
Half behind the vegetation. You could look at this spot for ten minutes and miss it.
You hear it from far away: a deep, hollow bark that carries through the whole canopy. Then you look up and try to find where the sound is coming from. What makes it look like it has two beaks is the casque, a curved structure that grows above the bill and amplifies the call. Two frames. That’s how often it holds still long enough.
In the canopy. Once you know the silhouette, bill below and casque curving up above, you can't unsee it.
At height in the canopy. It had been calling for ten minutes before we found it.
A smoking crater inside a caldera, at the foot of the highest volcano on Java.
17 photographs · 5 sequences
Bromo rises 2,329 metres out of the Tengger Caldera in East Java, a sea of black volcanic sand ringed by walls that fold like curtains. It is still active, and the crater breathes steam the whole time you are there. Behind it stands Semeru, the highest volcano on Java, and beside it the clean cone of Batok. You start in the dark, in the back of a jeep, and by the time the light reaches the caldera you are standing above a layer of cloud looking down on all of it. These photographs follow a day on the mountain, from the viewpoint at first light down to the sand and up to the rim of the crater.
The jeeps leave in the dark, and the viewpoint is already full by the time you arrive. Then the cloud starts to glow. Below you the Tengger Caldera fills with mist, Bromo pushes its steam into the air, and Semeru stands above everything. The light lasts a few minutes, and the whole platform goes quiet for them.
Batok in the foreground, Bromo steaming behind it and Semeru above the cloud. Morning light on the slopes.
The same view through the red shrubs at the viewpoint. The steam from Bromo catches the first color.
Bromo's crater and its plume, framed by flowers out of focus. The whole caldera lit from the side.
Looking across the caldera from the ridge. Pines lit gold in the foreground, Bromo steaming below.
The inner wall of the caldera is not a cliff, it is a curtain. Erosion has folded the slope into hundreds of sharp vertical ridges, and when the low sun slips in under the cloud, each one lights up on its own. The cloud sits on the rim and the light comes in from underneath.
The caldera wall under a low ceiling of cloud. The ridges catch the sun one by one.
The same wall in the fog, its top dissolved. The savannah at its foot is the only flat ground in sight.
Close on the ridges. Erosion has cut the slope into folds, and scrub holds on wherever it can.
Down on the floor of the caldera there is nothing but black volcanic sand, and the jeeps line up at the foot of Batok. From here you walk. The temple at the base of Bromo looks tiny, and the crater behind it looks closer than it is. These frames cover the flat ground, from the jeeps and from above.
Jeeps lined up at the foot of Batok, each one painted a different color.
Batok and the Sand Sea from the rim of the crater. Rock and ash in the foreground.
The temple at the foot of Bromo, small against the crater and its steam. Hikers crossing the sand are tiny.
From the sand, the crater rim looks like a short climb. It is a steep staircase cut into loose ash, and on a busy morning it is a slow line of people. Near the top the steam starts to reach you, and the wind decides how much of the view you get.
The staircase to the rim. A line of hikers from the base to the top, small against the ash.
The rim of the crater with the cloud pouring over it. A few people sitting at the edge.
Hikers on the rim, almost lost in the steam. The wind shifts and the whole view disappears.
A group walking the edge of the crater. The steam comes and goes in seconds.
Looking into the crater is less a view than a smell. Sulfur stains the rock yellow, steam rolls up the walls, and the wind changes what you can see from one second to the next. Nobody stays long.
The outer slope of the crater. Ash, crust and pale mineral deposits.
The inner wall streaked with sulfur yellow. Steam gathers at the base of the frame.
Looking down at the steam where the wall meets the crater floor.